This is a series of experiments designed to test, not gear (which should be well made), but how strong typical placements are, and how they line up with the perceived strength.
Four experienced trad climbers placed a range of protection in a poxy bit of Sydney sandstone. Some placements were intentionally marginal. The climbers then rated each piece. Then the placements were pull tested until failure.
You can participate in this experiment by giving your own rating for each piece. It is not possible to really examine and rate a placement from a photograph, but none-the-less you can then follow the results and subsequent discussion.
The testing rig was bought with donations from Mainpeak, Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym, Climbing Anchors Australia, Victorian Climbing Club, Sydney Rockclimbing Club, Michael Hargreaves, and Vanessa (tho she doesn't know yet)
